Posts Tagged ‘Yohji Yamamoto’

BNTBTBB Dirty Review

July 24, 2009

Dirty is apparently inspired by the phenomenon of an “Italian shower”, otherwise known as using deodorant instead washing. It explains why the fragrance smells so clean. The picture is actually of the matching body spray, but I thought it was too entertaining not to use.

DirtyA highly mentholated Mint and Lemon are the top notes. Surprisingly minty-fresh, it’s the Spearmint smell of Wrigley’s chewing gum, except toned down a lot. Also present is the same Oakmoss dustiness as Eau Sauvage.
It warms into an aromatic, light Lavender with herbal notes and the mint still present. It’s not toothpasty, as you would expect from the top, but it’s a fantastic solid Lavender fougere without any aquatic notes. On a card, it is more anisic than it is on skin, and could fool you into thinking it was a replacement for Yohji Homme.
The soft quiet Sandalwood drydown is acres more complex than the synthetics you normally smell in mainstream designer fragrances. It reminds me of warm bark. The problem I have with Dirty is that it doesn’t smell unclean or dirty. I want my fragrances dirty, not the man!

Notes: Spearmint, Tarragon, Sandalwood, Lavender, Neroli, Thyme, Oakmoss

Kenzo Tokyo Review

March 6, 2009

Kenzo’s masculines are always intriguing and at least , but they’ve never fared particularly well on the shelves in store. Pour Homme, L’eau Par, Air, all gone not long after appearing on shelf. Tokyo never even made it to my store, but lucky for me it was around in the local department stores. Tokyo was surprisingly inspired by the Japanese capital and it’s neon brightness.

tokyoTokyo opens with a citrus note that lasts for a fleeting moment, grapefruit with orange. As soon as that disappears, a sharp Licorice accord, which brings to mind Yohji Homme and Egoiste, is the main player. It is warmed by a small dose of Ginger. I find the spice notes very prominent.
The heart smells incredibly thick and dark, like a shadow of a huge tree hangs over it. At the same time, there is a light and bright feeling maintained throughout. This juxtaposition holds my interest every time. There is a pink pepper note, which I love in YSL’s Elle, and there is a Mint and an Anisic note – this could be ‘Shiso’, a Japanese plant that is a member of the mint family and apparently reminiscent of Fennel, which itself smells like Aniseed.
The drydown is creamy and woody, soft but thick, due to Gaiac, and still shadowy, with a Chocolate and crystallized Ginger accord hidden in the shadows.

Top: Grapefruit, Lemon, Bitter Orange, Ginger
Middle: Green Tea, Shiso, Maté, Pink Pepper
Base: Cedar, Clove, Nutmeg, Gaiac Wood

Egoiste Review

February 21, 2009

Egoiste is the 3rd Chanel Masculine, launched in 1990. Egoiste is apparently the relaunched version of Bois Noir, which was a US exclusive and (according to reviews on Basenotes) had more Sandalwood and Vanilla than Egoiste. More? Egoiste has plenty! Apologies for the small image, I couldn’t find a decent sized one.

egoisteAs soon as it’s sprayed, there is a sweet citrus note that lasts mere seconds. Egoiste’s first impressions are of a sweet, boozy, sugary, Anisic cough syrup. But I like that! There is a soft wood note, which is also warm, and a sweaty smelling note, probably Cumin. I think Egoiste may well have been the predecessor to other Anisic beings, like Yohji Homme and Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin.
The sweat note disappears pretty quickly for a Cinnamon and Rose / floral accord similar to YSL’s Opium to hang about. But as the surroundings for this accord are very thick in feel, it never gets to take over.
A vanilla note, similar to Bvlgari Black, and Ambrette, similar to the sweetness of Dior Homme Intense are the “thick” surroundings which live in the drydown. The smoky floral and cinnamon combination against the vanilla and ambrette sweetness is delicious and enticing. Vanilla, vanilla, vanilla and more boozy vanilla essence makes it smell of some kind of vanilla liquer when it’s on the card, whereas on me, the Sandalwood is apparent alongside this.
Egoiste shouts for attention and wants to be heard – I’m happy to listen. I think Egoiste came too early to be appreciated, and as such is harder to find than it’s flanker.

Top: Mandarin, Rosewood, Coriander
Middle: Rose, Carnation, Cinnamon
Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Ambrette Seeds