Posts Tagged ‘Versace’

A Scent by Issey Miyake Review

September 20, 2009

A Scent by Issey Miyake is the latest feminine launch from Issey Miyake, whose last main successful fragrance launched 17 years ago. Over on the ‘A Scent’ website, you can watch a video interview with Daphné Bugey, who mentions that she chose to use a ‘forgotten’ ingredient, that has been extracted with a new modern technique.

a scentA Scent opens with a light citrus note, possibly from the listed Verbena, and a whole lot of green. Green has been a theme of this years feminine launches, with Cristalle Eau Verte and Versace Versense, as well as Miss Dior Cherie L’Eau, and Bvlgari Green Jade all spearheading the trend throughout the year.
Galbanum quickly takes the lead and heads centre stage. This Galbanum is dry, soft, slightly moss like and grassy. The inclusion of Galbanum in a fragrance is very interesting as it seemed to have fallen out of favour with the perfume buying public, and although mentioned in many notes pyramids recently it hasn’t really been as potent as here. Good examples of Galbanum in fragrance are Chanel’s No19, Guerlain’s Vol de Nuit and Estée Lauder’s Private Collection.
Although not particularly harsh, it is softened by light floral accents, with super clean Jasmine beside the Galbanum. There isn’t much of a drydown to speak of, but the fragrance is transparent throughout and not as thick as many green scents have been. A Scent is very different to what the perfume market is used to (fruity-floral) and has been very polarising with customers. Maybe Issey Miyake will be at the front of the new trend in fragrance, as he was with L’Eau D’Issey.

Top: Verbena, Fresh Notes
Middle: Galbanum, Hyacinth
Base: Jasmine, Woods


Cristalle Eau Verte Review

May 13, 2009

Cristalle Eau Verte is Chanel’s latest offering, and is a modernized update of the 1974 classic created by Henri Robert. It is designed as a luminously fresh fragrance, and is meant to evoke “the exhilaration of refreshing summer rain at the close of a gorgeous sunny day”. I’m not sure that it smells particularly of rain or summery. Many other reviews have cited that it doesn’t seem at all related to the original fragrance – and I can only agree. The EdT is very mossy. The EdP is thick and heady. Eau Verte is light and breezy.

cristallThe opening is a bright, bitter and sweet Lime, much like Guerlain Homme, with a shot of Anise, which is present for mere seconds and creates a more bitter tone for the duration. Up top is also a high dose of Citronella, which adds to the freshness. It feels incredibly green, and the Lime plays on this.
In my opinion, it is somewhat similar to Chance Eau Fraiche, and is also similar in style to the recent J’Adore L’eau, with it’s combination of creamy Magnolia and citrus notes, and Versace’s Versense, which feels green and has a potent Citronella note too.
The heart hides a light white-floral mixture of Jasmine, which has a little bit of skank, and is hard to smell behind the verdant greenery. There is also some kind of effect that reminds me of the darkness in Gucci by Gucci.
The drydown is a skin-soft, very light and creamy Jasmine, lacking any punch or much of a trail, but it’s very pleasant and it seems like Chanel are onto a winner. The scent is completely genderless, and unless you are put off by floral notes it is completely wearable by a guy.

Top: Lemon, Bergamot
Middle: Magnolia, Neroli
Base: Jasmine, Musky-Iris Accord

Hilfiger Review

March 30, 2009

Tommy Hilfiger’s Tommy and Tommy Girl set the bar pretty high for further releases, still selling well, yet none of the follow up scents have lasted particularly well. I remember the 10th anniversary editions being particularly dull. True Star Men smells like Aloe Vera juice that has gone bad. Hilfiger’s most recent release, “Hilfiger” is created to be a classic and American icon.

hilfigerThe opening notes are very familiar. Quite generic and like the “man smell” that is put into so many shaving foams and after shave balms. Perhaps this is intended to be familiar, so it sells? Who knows. Citrus with Rosemary, if I didn’t know better I’d think it was a new Hugo Boss.
A sharp Musk note (this must be the ‘Skin Accord’) creeps into the heart and overpowers the shy Rose note. It feels like an acidic and louder version of YSL L’Homme.
The Musky woody drydown doesn’t really grab my attention – it smells like a lot of other designer scents, and brings Versace Blue Jeans to mind, which itself smells of Matey bubble bath. I can’t help but think the desire for a long list of notes has left the scent confused and it ended up as a ‘fresh woody musk’ that consumer panels seem so fond of. There are tonnes of scents out there that do anything Hilfiger does better – for the bubble bath, go for the Blue Jeans, for the Citrus and Rosemary, try Eau Sauvage, for the ‘soft musk’ heart, try L’Homme.

Top: Bergamot, Mandarin, Pink Grapefruit, Juniper, Papaya, Rosemary
Middle: Curcuma, Mahogany Wood, White Tea Rose, Skin Accord
Base: Suede, Sandalwood, Cistus, Tonka, Cashmere Wood

Ma Dame and Ma Dame Eau Fraiche Reviews

March 26, 2009

Jean-Paul Gaultier’s scents are incredibly popular. Le Male and Classique have been in top 10 sellers for as long as I remember, and I’ve never liked either of them. Fragile used to make me smile, after a long time of getting used to it. Fleur du Male was far too potent for me. Ma Dame, however, is completely different from the others. I liked it instantly. It’s cheer-up-juice. I got 2 days of it rammed into my nose at my pre-christmas training, and could probably identify it anywhere in a 1 mile radius.

madameMa Dame begins with Orange and Pomegranate. It’s fizzy for a few seconds, and then a Bubblegum (which smells like the 2p Anglo Bubbly bubblegum I used to buy as a kid from the newsagent) and Aniseed Ball note, with a plastic and neon-bright feeling. There is a powdery note, not Iris, but maybe like Heliotrope, with a bitter sweet Raspberry, which is similar to the raspberry note in Diesel Fuel for Life Men, and Rosewater.
A Cedar note in the heart is thick smelling with the Grenadine so there is still some sweetness. It smells like Grenadine syrup on it’s own, without being diluted with lemonade or water. Also, a dusty vanilla note adds more sweetness, and is reminiscent of Hypnotic Poison, but fruitier.
The drydown is a soft musk note, not in any way sharp or grating like I find many musks, with much of the citrus sweetness still going on. There is no reason a man couldn’t wear this.

Top: Orange Zest, Grenadine
Middle: Fresh Rose, Floral Notes
Base: Musk, Cedar

madameefMa Dame’s summer flanker, Eau Fraiche, is a stripped down version of the original. It’s a lighter concentration.
Fizzes straight out of the bottle like Orangeade, the citrus note is impressive and very well done. Instead of ice cubes in this drink, we have Rose petals, shimmering with Grapefruit juice. The fizz subsides after a few minutes. It quickly turns to roses with a splash of syrupy pomegranate and a hint of musk.
It’s a summer cocktail drink, without any alcohol, and much softer than many summer editions – the newest Escada edition terrifies your nose into submission with the smell of a hundred bottles of children’s sugary strawberry paracetamol.
The drydown is a fizzy Cedar, very similar to Armani Diamonds for Men, alongside the sweet Grenadine. It also brings to mind Versace Men Eau Fraiche. The only fault is that the lower concentration results in poor longevity – so spray it on clothing.

Top: Orange Zest, Pink Grapefruit, Raspberry
Middle: Ultra Fresh Rose, Grenadine
Base: Cedar, Musk