Posts Tagged ‘Paul Smith’

Paul Smith Man Review

September 17, 2009

Paul Smith Man, not to be confused with Paul Smith Men (which was the first fragrance released), is the latest release from Paul Smith. The London based designer is famous for his stripy motif. The advertising was shot by Sir Smith himself, and the bottle is a basic black bottle reminiscent of Jil Sander and Comme des Garcons Luxe Patchouli.

paulsmithmanMan opens with a tiny hint of Bergamot-citrus, but is mostly dominated by Anise & Iris – the Iris is carroty, rooty and dry, and persists throughout the life of the fragrance. It feels that it is very ‘Paul Smith’ in style, and reminds me of Men and London.
Behind the Iris is a sweet and light Patchouli note, as well as a warm-dry, resinous-smokeless Incense and Violet (which is the whole plant – leaf and flower, rather than just ‘part’ of it), all appear and do not overpower. The “Spicy Accord” mentioned reminds me of Kenzo Power, with Cardamom and other notes giving a slightly sweet edge to the Violet.
The drydown is Tonka heavy, and the Iris remains present to the bitter end.
Paul Smith Man, although not wildly original (fans of Fahrenheit would probably like this), is still a departure from most mainstream releases and very pleasing, with good longevity and moderate sillage.

Top: Yuzu, Bergamot, Anise
Middle: Incense, Patchouli, Spicy Accord
Base: Orris, Violet, Tonka Bean

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Terre d’Hermes Review

July 12, 2009

Terre d’Hermes is meant to be an olfactory journey through the elements of earth, air and water (wait, no fire?). It was composed by Hermes Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, famous for his transparent fragrance structures and launched in 2006. TdH has been massively popular and is the second most reviewed fragrance over at Basenotes (behind A*Men). It famously contains 55% Iso E Super in it’s formula.

Terre d'HermesOpens as a harsh and loud bitter Orange with a tiny hint of Grapefruit. Fortunately, this part is shortlived.
As the citrus subsides, earthy, scorched, dry Vetiver appears, but is dominated by the Pepper notes – which are just lightly spicy and nose-tingling. Soft and elegant, with a tiny hint of Patchouli, which has also been given the Ellena touch (a ghostly presence). There is also a minty-herbal note, which is possibly Geranium, and Benzoin, dry, resionous and vanillic, making me think “smoke”.
After this comes the ‘mineral’ smell, a cold, sharp crystalline note. Like breeze over a rocky desert (the advertising for Terre d’Hermes is perfect in this regard). The sparkling clear-ness reminds me of Paul Smith Story.
The long drydown remains crystal clear and Cedar like, projecting for miles with fantastic longevity. It performs particularly well in the heat of summer.

Top: Grapefruit, Orange, Flint
Middle: Pepper, Pink Pepper, Geranium leaves, Patchouli
Base: Cedar, Vetiver, Benzoin

Paul Smith Story Review

June 22, 2009

Paul Smith Story is the fourth offering from Paul Smith, after Men (clean soapy Iris-Vetiver), Extreme (Transparent Woody-Musk), and London (Mint-Jam weirdness). Inter Parfums, who own the license to Paul Smith, said Story was “too intellectual”, which would explain why it doesn’t sell as well as the others did (London is discontinued), but it does have it’s fans. The bottle is the shape of a book, the font on the box apparently came from Smith’s old typewriter, and the box opens out like a book too.

Paul Smith StoryStory doesn’t smell of books or ink. Instead, it opens with a tart, green Bergamot and what the marketing machine called “Ivy Leaves”, though to me it smells more like Nettles, and a little bit of Citron in the background, which adds a little sting to the nettle.
Then a mentholated, almost camphor-like “fresh” Anise note appears. Clear, crisp and cool, with a very quiet and transparent Jasmine – which is present but very much see through – slightly buttery and dirty, develops quickly to the Vetiver. Smoky, salty, creamy and nutty all at once. There is Cedar, very light, with what I can only describe as “almost” the pencil shavings smell from Gucci pour Homme, a dash of Green Tea and Violet Leaf (but not the grating synthetic Violet leaf that I hate). It’s mostly a light clear Vetiver in the drydown – which is achieved surprisingly quickly. If you need a Vetiver that isn’t Guerlain’s, Story is a fantastic modernized alternative with impressive sillage and longevity (10 hours and it’s still on the back of my hand).

Top: Grapefruit, Bergamot, Green Ivy Accord
Middle: Rosy notes, Jasmine
Base: Vetiver, Cedarwood, Musk, Amber