Posts Tagged ‘Paco Rabanne’

BNTBTBB Ladyboy Review

July 10, 2009

Ladyboy is BNTBTBB’s ‘punk’ fragrance. It is apparently loved by “fiercely good looking” gay guys, as well as straight guys and girls (so everyone but Lesbians, Bisexuals and Transgenders?) Words I would use to describe it are ‘flamboyant’ and ‘unconventional’ – especially as this in their Men’s offering.

LadyboyLadyboy opens with a brash, radioactive Banana. On a card it smells more like “refreshers” sweets, but on me it reminds me of the flavouring used in antibiotic syrup that I had to take when I was 6. The Banana is stood, rather unashamedly in front of the lush Violet Leaf (very good quality, not frustratingly synthetic) and Chamomile – a combination that smells like Raspberry leaf to me.
The Seaweed in the drydown is almost unrecognisable (I spent an entire weekend sniffing seaweed last week, I know what it smells like) – it isn’t salty or briny, but it does suggest the seaside. It’s strangely powdery, smoky and sweet but somewhat like the breeze. If the Banana wasn’t still so potent, it would probably save the fragrance for me.
My dislike of Banana as a flavouring/smell/taste/texture doesn’t make me dislike Ladyboy. What makes me dislike Ladyboy is that it all smells too strange together. Though the sugariness gives it a similar feel to Black XS, it is very unconventional, but I don’t know if it’s necessarily a good thing.

Notes: Banana, Violet Leaf, Seaweed, Labdanum, Oakmoss, Chamomile

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Armani Attitude Extreme Review

June 14, 2009

Armani’s newest release, Attitude Extreme is a flanker to 2007’s Attitude. Attitude is possibly Armani’s least successful mainstream launch.
Attitude is almost entirely Coffee and Patchouli. The Patchouli is very woody, but not particularly earthy. It smells very similar to Mugler’s Ice*Men, but even more potent and without the frothy icy quality.

Attitude ExtremeExtreme is instantly sweeter, almost chocolatey, the Coffee note is not as potent as the original. The Patchouli note is also softer than in the original. There is also a somewhat smoky note up top, possibly a suggestion of the Benzoin, but it never comes to anything before the smokiness disappears.
The heart and drydown is almost entirely the Amber note, the same icing-sugar Amber that has featured recently in Only the Brave and Ultrared. It is powdery and soft. While the Amber note is prominent up close, Extreme doesn’t project very well. The Amber is backed up by a quiet Coffee/wood accord, which is much more noticeable on card than it is on skin. It is much closer to Armani Code than it is Attitude.

Top: Lemon, Anise, Cardamom
Middle: Cedar, Coffee, Benzoin
Base: Amber, Patchouli

Paco Rabanne Ultrared and Usher UR Review

April 11, 2009

Ultrared is the summer flanker to Ultraviolet from 2008, that has been relaunched for 2009. In my opinion, Puig should launch it as a permanent addition to the line, because they’ve nailed the crowd pleasing sugar-sweet masculine fragrances with Black XS, 1 Million and now Ultrared.

ultraredThe opening is juicy. Oranges with some berry-like tanginess, which has been dusted with icing sugar in some odd-desert confection.
The fruity note moves into a light Chocolate Praline accord, which is still coated with the icing sugar, with a quiet Antaeus-esque Leather in the background, and stays that way for the rest of the day. For a summer fragrance, it has fantastic longevity.
From my description, you’d probably imagine it to be a winter fragrance, but by some marvel it’s wearable in the heat and doesn’t become overbearing or cloying.

Top: Blood Orange
Middle: Praline, Tonka Bean
Base: Vanilla, Patchouli

Usher’s second fragrance, UR, is described as fresh and aromatic. UR is very much in the style of soapy clean scents, such as Prada Amber, Infusion d’Homme et al. One thing I’ve certainly noticed about many Celebuscents is the long notes list from which nothing can actually be distinguished.

urUR opens on shower-fresh Lemon scented soap, and for the most part, stays there. This is the kind of fragrance that is meant to be used after a shower to confirm how very scrubbed clean you are. And in a clever and unexpected twist, it even smells of steam for a while.
The ‘sortof’ drydown is the Lemon-soap accord, with some Violet Leaf and a fuzzy Woody note, which could be any of the listed ‘woods’. It’s really quite a well-done fragrance and is a massive improvement on his first scent (which smelled of the Banana milkshake in Marc Jacobs Daisy but slightly woodier) even if it reminds me of the Shower scene in American Psycho.

Top: Melon, Granny Smith Apple, Sea Breeze Accord, Bergamot
Middle: Artemisia, Bay Oil, Thai Basil, Nutmeg, Violet Leaf
Base: Guaiac Wood, Cashmere Wood, Sandalwood

Fahrenheit Review

February 15, 2009

Fahrenheit, according to Chandler Burr, was originally going to be the fragrance that ended up as Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. The success of that would have been interesting to see, but apparently Dior lost their bottle and changed it to the fragrance we know now at the last minute.

fahrenheitFahrenheit’s top notes are a blast of ‘deep heat’, the stuff that you put on sports injuries, but with a cold feel instead of a burning smell. Bitter and pungent, something that feels like Anise and Cloves, and with a sweet spicy note, not a spice cupboard one. Also, there is a camphor or menthol note up top with the Violet Leaves pretty much walking centre stage and shouting it’s lines out.
Then something medicinal comes along, as well as something that smells oily or like fuel of some kind. Of course, the Violet Leaves are still here. What shocks me about Fahrenheit is that it’s so loud all the way through it’s development. It seems like it’s related to Ultraviolet, but an icy version (rather than the warm spicy sugar that UVman is).
The drydown is just Violet Leaves to me. They never go away, and just get more and more tenacious. I think I must be hyperosmic to some violet leaf chemicals, because I always seem to notice the note. The loudness of this note in Fahrenheit is what makes me dislike it.

Top: Hawthorn, Honeysuckle, Mandarin, Bergamot
Middle: Sandalwood, Violet Leaves, Nutmeg, Carnation
Base: Cedarwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Leather

The Offenders of ’08 – Mini Reviews (Mens)

January 8, 2009

I’ve listed and reviewed my favourite fragrances from 2008, and I realized that I don’t really pan anything at all. So here are the Male fragrances released this year that I didn’t like.

Calvin Klein Euphoria Intense – Supposedly has an Oud note, smells more like an aquatic mixed with “fruit salad” sweets.

Dolce & Gabanna The One for Men – Smells like a cheap drug store brand deodorant to me – I don’t find it interesting at all. The best part, the tobacco drydown, isn’t worth the wait to me.

Boss Pure – Oh joy, another “fresh” aquatic. Milky smelling in it’s topnotes, but isn’t particularly briny or salty, ideas that would hold my interest some more.

Emporio Armani Diamonds – Fizzy Cedar wood and Musk. I’m sorry, I just plain don’t like you.

Paco Rabanne 1 Million – Oranges coated in icing with a wimpy Suede note. Makes me wretch. Should be marketed to women. Cool bottle, though.

Givenchy Play – Synthetic feeling Citrus-Musk. And not synthetic in that cool Comme des Garcons “it does smell like a garage” way. The intense version is better – it has more Coffee Wood and Tonka. But saying that the intense is better is like saying a cold is better than the flu.