Posts Tagged ‘Issey Miyake’

A Scent by Issey Miyake Review

September 20, 2009

A Scent by Issey Miyake is the latest feminine launch from Issey Miyake, whose last main successful fragrance launched 17 years ago. Over on the ‘A Scent’ website, you can watch a video interview with Daphné Bugey, who mentions that she chose to use a ‘forgotten’ ingredient, that has been extracted with a new modern technique.

a scentA Scent opens with a light citrus note, possibly from the listed Verbena, and a whole lot of green. Green has been a theme of this years feminine launches, with Cristalle Eau Verte and Versace Versense, as well as Miss Dior Cherie L’Eau, and Bvlgari Green Jade all spearheading the trend throughout the year.
Galbanum quickly takes the lead and heads centre stage. This Galbanum is dry, soft, slightly moss like and grassy. The inclusion of Galbanum in a fragrance is very interesting as it seemed to have fallen out of favour with the perfume buying public, and although mentioned in many notes pyramids recently it hasn’t really been as potent as here. Good examples of Galbanum in fragrance are Chanel’s No19, Guerlain’s Vol de Nuit and Estée Lauder’s Private Collection.
Although not particularly harsh, it is softened by light floral accents, with super clean Jasmine beside the Galbanum. There isn’t much of a drydown to speak of, but the fragrance is transparent throughout and not as thick as many green scents have been. A Scent is very different to what the perfume market is used to (fruity-floral) and has been very polarising with customers. Maybe Issey Miyake will be at the front of the new trend in fragrance, as he was with L’Eau D’Issey.

Top: Verbena, Fresh Notes
Middle: Galbanum, Hyacinth
Base: Jasmine, Woods

Ted Baker M Review

March 15, 2009

Ted Baker is a British design house that is based on quality, attention to detail and a sense of humour. The first fragrance, Skinwear, was launched in 1998, and was followed with a string of scents. The last being a limited edition named “Skinwear 10”, in celebration of the 10th anniversary of Skinwear. The next launches are M and W summer limited editions, which were available in mini form last year. M (alongside W) launched in 2002.

m1M has a citrus opening, which smells like lemon, but it’s not. It’s Yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit used during bathing, and is usually cut in hot springs to scent the water. There is also a sweet Tea and Pepper note, which feels similar to Bvlgari Pour Homme Soir. There is an Ozonic, breezy feel throughout the topnotes.
The heart bears a warm, light green leafy note, over a scent like Hay, with a light fizzy Incense accord. Slightly smoky, but it’s really been given a light touch and seems as though it’s being smelled through a veil of steam. There are similarities to Odeur 71, with it’s abstract incense note, and L’eau d’Issey. The Coriander is also present, with a quiet Rose note similar to dunhill London’s.
The drydown is a powdery, soft, rooty Vetiver, with Chocolate. Which smells a lot better than it sounds. It’s surprisingly sensual and just smells great.

Top: Yuzu, Roseberry, Black Pepper
Middle: Coriander, Elemi, Gaiacwood
Base: Vetiver, Tonka Bean, Musk

DKNY Men Review

March 8, 2009

DKNY Men is the latest release from DKNY. It isn’t a relaunch of the previous scent, in a tall blue skyscraper bottle. The new bottle is shaped like the Flatiron Building in Manhattan. As soon as I read the notes, I had high hopes for the fragrance.

dknymenThe opening is familiar, with a large dose of the cucumber-like aromachemical, Calone, and what feels slightly citrus. Like when you get a waxed Lemon at the supermarket. But there are powdery Iris undertones, which makes the aquatic note smell really weird. Is this Infusion d’Homme sport?
The heart reminds me of several fragrances. It’s plasticky, but not as much as Bvlgari pour Homme Soir. Not as aquatic or citrus as Acqua di Gio, nor as dry or powdery as Infusion d’Homme. And it’s aromatic, but not as much as L’eau Bleue d’Issey pour Homme, with it’s potent herbs of Provence note. It also reminds me of Ted Baker M, a review of which will be appearing on the blog later this month. It reminds me of so many things, it’s as though many good ideas that work in different fragrances have been thrown together in one bottle, and put directly onto the shelves without checking that all the ideas work together.
The drydown is powdery, musky Cedar, before it finally turns into an indistinguishable sour, off pitch note that eventually fizzles out and leaves me completely underwhelmed.

Top: Bergamot, Mandarin, Juniper, Sage
Middle: White Pepper, Cardamom, Lavender, Violet, Jasmine
Base: Cedarwood, Patchouli, Orris, Vetiver