Posts Tagged ‘Caron’

Guerlain Vetiver Review

March 9, 2009

Guerlain’s Vetiver was originally created in 1959, and was relaunched in 2000. This review is of the relaunched (and apparently reformulated) version. There is a great deal of fuss created over the ‘vintage’ scent, but as I’ve never smelled it and love the current version, I don’t think I’m missing out. Vetiver is a staple to many men’s wardrobe, and is used by many women too.

vetiverVetiver is tough, bitter, astringent and woodsy through a floral and citrus opening. Clean and green, with a slightly soapy feeling, but at the same time earthy and dirty.
The soap feeling is gentlemanly, and not girly, as in it’s not related to an aldehydic scented soap like No 5, I think it’s the combination of Neroli and Vetiver that create this image of ‘man soap’ – the same effect is present in Zara’s much less complex Vetiver.
The heart has a spicy edge which is similar to Yatagan, but this is softened by the green feeling which is maintained throughout the life of the fragrance. The Cedar and Sandalwood create warm and comforting feeling.
It dries down to an earthy, dirty, Hay-like Tobacco and Vetiver base, which is slightly honeyed but not at all sweet, and the Pepper note creates a spiciness. The Nutmeg is present, but only just, the grassy Vetiver note is what is meant to shine throughout the fragrance and Jean-Paul Guerlain did a fantastic job keeping the focus on it.

Top: Bergamot, Lemon, Mandarin, Neroli, Coriander
Middle: Vetiver, Cedar, Clary Sage, Carnation, Sandalwood
Base: Tobacco, Nutmeg, Pepper, Tonka Bean, Capsicum

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Eau Sauvage Review

February 13, 2009

Eau Sauvage is the classic masculine Dior fragrance. Created back in 1966 and still on shelves today, for good reason. Eau Sauvage is famous for including a high dose of Hedione in the formula, to give a luminous, lightly floral character. It, or one of it’s many similar spinoffs, deserves a place in any man’s wardrobe.

eausauvage1Eau Sauvage opens with an interesting play on textures, dry and dusty, with a somehow wet and soapy Lemon note, similar to DKNY Woman. But sharper, crisp, and clean, with a sherberty quality to it.
Moving on to a green, leafy floral heart, still maintaining it’s soapy clean quality. Clear and bright, feeling masculine with the wet grean leaves and it’s dusty feel is persistent. It reminds me at this point of Caron’s Troisiemme Homme.
The powdery, woody feeling base is thick, not soft and bright like many modern masculines. It also has a musky, leathery feel, which reminds me of Aramis, but cleaned up, and a green note from the oakmoss.
Base point for hundreds of copy-cats, Eau Sauvage is the king of clean, soapy masculines.

Top: Lemon, Rosemary, Petitgrain, Basil
Middle: Jasmine, Rose, Carnation, Orris
Base: Vetiver, Oakmoss, Musk

Yatagan Review

February 8, 2009

Over at Basenotes.net, it was Sniff n Speak Saturday, which has come round very quickly! I wore Caron’s Yatagan yesterday. According to several reviews, Yatagan is ‘difficult’. I disagree wholeheartedly.

yataganRight away, Yatagan smells dated to me, “aftershavey” and thick. It’s also dry, but not parching, more astringent, and spicy. Dated isn’t always a bad thing though, I’m impressed by the balls on Yatagan.
On the card I put it on too I smelled a distinct vegetable note, which I guess is the Celery that other people have described. It’s earthy and dirty. The opening on me was familiar, and reminded me of L’instant (homme), with it’s Patchouli and sweat note, but feels much rougher than L’instant does. Also, there is something slightly floral – reminds me of Opium (the feminine) and Knowing – but charred, which must be the listed Geranium.
The heart is a sweet Pine note with a dusty and smoky character. Almost like Gucci pour Homme but without the Cedarwood and Incense.
The leather note in the drydown reminds me of Antaeus, with it’s warm feel, but Yatagan still smells more manly and much dirtier, where Antaeus smells quite feminine because of the baby powder note I get from it. It still feels spicy, bringing Obsession to mind. 24 hours after applying it, I can still smell it pretty strongly. You don’t get longevity like that from modern scents.

Top: Lavender, Wormwood, Petitgrain, Artemisia
Middle: Geranium, Pine Needles, Vetiver, Patchouli
Base: Leather, Labdanum, Castoreum, Styrax