Posts Tagged ‘Calvin Klein’

Yatagan Review

February 8, 2009

Over at Basenotes.net, it was Sniff n Speak Saturday, which has come round very quickly! I wore Caron’s Yatagan yesterday. According to several reviews, Yatagan is ‘difficult’. I disagree wholeheartedly.

yataganRight away, Yatagan smells dated to me, “aftershavey” and thick. It’s also dry, but not parching, more astringent, and spicy. Dated isn’t always a bad thing though, I’m impressed by the balls on Yatagan.
On the card I put it on too I smelled a distinct vegetable note, which I guess is the Celery that other people have described. It’s earthy and dirty. The opening on me was familiar, and reminded me of L’instant (homme), with it’s Patchouli and sweat note, but feels much rougher than L’instant does. Also, there is something slightly floral – reminds me of Opium (the feminine) and Knowing – but charred, which must be the listed Geranium.
The heart is a sweet Pine note with a dusty and smoky character. Almost like Gucci pour Homme but without the Cedarwood and Incense.
The leather note in the drydown reminds me of Antaeus, with it’s warm feel, but Yatagan still smells more manly and much dirtier, where Antaeus smells quite feminine because of the baby powder note I get from it. It still feels spicy, bringing Obsession to mind. 24 hours after applying it, I can still smell it pretty strongly. You don’t get longevity like that from modern scents.

Top: Lavender, Wormwood, Petitgrain, Artemisia
Middle: Geranium, Pine Needles, Vetiver, Patchouli
Base: Leather, Labdanum, Castoreum, Styrax

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YSL Elle and Elle Intense Reviews

February 1, 2009

Yves Saint Laurent is a house that offers many fantastic, interesting scents. When I first started selling perfume, I picked up the bottle of Nu and didn’t know what to make of it, but I liked something about it. Paris, the Rose-bouquet, is one of my favourite florals, Baby Doll, with it’s shot of Grenadine (which is wonderful with soda water, by the way) I think is the perfect sweet scent for young girls. And CinĂ©ma should live on as a masterpiece. So, in anticipation of the upcoming male release ‘L’homme de la Nuit’, I take a look at the most recent feminines from the house.

I remember the first moment I sampled YSL’s Elle, before it’s release, at a training course. The colour of the bottle was the first thing to draw me in. The fuschia skyscraper hypnotized me. I sprayed it and was surprised, I wasn’t expecting it at all. What I was expecting was another sugary sweet floral. What I found instead was a bright burst of sweet Berries and fruits, with a masculine edge – Patchouli is evident right from the opening, as in Midnight Poison and Prada Amber.
ellePatchouli and Pink Pepper are prevalent in the heart. This is softened by a loud floral note, which smells similar to Stella in Two Peony. I feel that big Peony note in these two fragrances feels incredibly masculine, and as such this scent must be worn with great confidence. YSL himself was famous for putting women in a tuxedo, and I think that this is the scent equivalent. If you are looking for a peony that is girly, go for Yardley’s Peony, which is peony with musk.
The Vetiver and Patchouli drydown isn’t a million miles away from Stella, with the same odd combination of saltiness and Amber.

Top: Citron, Peony, Lychee
Middle: Pink Pepper, Rose, Freesia
Base: Patchouli, Vetiver, Ambrette

elleintenseElle Intense is recognizably related to the original, with the Berries and Patchouli hanging around. However, it’s significantly darker and dirtier. It’s great when flankers feel related to the original release, unlike Miss Dior and Miss Dior Cherie, which are polar opposites, and Euphoria Man against Euphoria Man Intense, which smell like completely different scents.
What makes Elle Intense different is a glorious smoky Incense and Ink note, that reminds me of Comme des Garcons 2. The Ink/cense note is all over the fragrance after the Raspberry note in the head evaporates.
The drydown is salty, rooty Vetiver with Ink, and an almost Banana-y note.

Top: Raspberry, Lychee
Middle: Pink Pepper, Iris, Jasmine
Base: Benzoin, Patchouli, Amber

Comme Des Garcons Eau de Parfum Review

January 17, 2009
Eau de Parfum was the original Comme des Garcons fragrance, launched in 1994. The ad-line was “A perfume that works like a medicine and behaves like a drug.” I agree with the behaving like a drug part, I can’t stop sniffing the stuff whenever I wear it. What I love about the CdG fragrances is that they really create imagery when you smell them – many designer scents don’t, simply achieving ‘nice smells’.

cdgparfum1Eau de Parfum opens with a strong blast of sweet spices, it’s almost dry. There is also a note that smells “sticky” to me behind the spicy opening – lots of Nutmeg with Geranium, with the other spices as a background. What first struck me about the fragrance was the distinct feeling of calm it creates. It relaxes me. The image it evokes is an old Herbalist’s store, the medicines all smelling beautiful and a warm glow from the gas lamps. Imagine the smell of all the spicy things from a store like ‘Lush’, and I think you’d get an idea.
The heart of the fragrance is where the pronounced Pepper note appears – the Pepper performs for about 20 minutes, and then the scent subsides into a sweet spicy floral, reminding me of Opium (the feminine) and Obsession (the masculine). A powdery dry note is also around here.
The drydown maintains the image of spicy flowers, but here is where the Cinnamon note makes it’s presence known. It gets stronger the longer it remains on the skin. Behind the Cinnamon is honey, almost syrupy. The image that comes to mind is of an apple pie, but without the apples!
I think that there is something special about this fragrance. It really is out of the ordinary.

Top: Nutmeg, Clove, Cardamom, Cut Hay
Middle: Geranium, Cedar, Coriander, Rose, Black Pepper
Base: Labdanum, Amber, Honey, Styrax, Cinnamon Bark Oil, Sandalwood

The Offenders of ’08 – Mini Reviews (Mens)

January 8, 2009

I’ve listed and reviewed my favourite fragrances from 2008, and I realized that I don’t really pan anything at all. So here are the Male fragrances released this year that I didn’t like.

Calvin Klein Euphoria Intense – Supposedly has an Oud note, smells more like an aquatic mixed with “fruit salad” sweets.

Dolce & Gabanna The One for Men – Smells like a cheap drug store brand deodorant to me – I don’t find it interesting at all. The best part, the tobacco drydown, isn’t worth the wait to me.

Boss Pure – Oh joy, another “fresh” aquatic. Milky smelling in it’s topnotes, but isn’t particularly briny or salty, ideas that would hold my interest some more.

Emporio Armani Diamonds – Fizzy Cedar wood and Musk. I’m sorry, I just plain don’t like you.

Paco Rabanne 1 Million – Oranges coated in icing with a wimpy Suede note. Makes me wretch. Should be marketed to women. Cool bottle, though.

Givenchy Play – Synthetic feeling Citrus-Musk. And not synthetic in that cool Comme des Garcons “it does smell like a garage” way. The intense version is better – it has more Coffee Wood and Tonka. But saying that the intense is better is like saying a cold is better than the flu.