Posts Tagged ‘Bvlgari’

A Scent by Issey Miyake Review

September 20, 2009

A Scent by Issey Miyake is the latest feminine launch from Issey Miyake, whose last main successful fragrance launched 17 years ago. Over on the ‘A Scent’ website, you can watch a video interview with Daphné Bugey, who mentions that she chose to use a ‘forgotten’ ingredient, that has been extracted with a new modern technique.

a scentA Scent opens with a light citrus note, possibly from the listed Verbena, and a whole lot of green. Green has been a theme of this years feminine launches, with Cristalle Eau Verte and Versace Versense, as well as Miss Dior Cherie L’Eau, and Bvlgari Green Jade all spearheading the trend throughout the year.
Galbanum quickly takes the lead and heads centre stage. This Galbanum is dry, soft, slightly moss like and grassy. The inclusion of Galbanum in a fragrance is very interesting as it seemed to have fallen out of favour with the perfume buying public, and although mentioned in many notes pyramids recently it hasn’t really been as potent as here. Good examples of Galbanum in fragrance are Chanel’s No19, Guerlain’s Vol de Nuit and Estée Lauder’s Private Collection.
Although not particularly harsh, it is softened by light floral accents, with super clean Jasmine beside the Galbanum. There isn’t much of a drydown to speak of, but the fragrance is transparent throughout and not as thick as many green scents have been. A Scent is very different to what the perfume market is used to (fruity-floral) and has been very polarising with customers. Maybe Issey Miyake will be at the front of the new trend in fragrance, as he was with L’Eau D’Issey.

Top: Verbena, Fresh Notes
Middle: Galbanum, Hyacinth
Base: Jasmine, Woods

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Ted Baker M Review

March 15, 2009

Ted Baker is a British design house that is based on quality, attention to detail and a sense of humour. The first fragrance, Skinwear, was launched in 1998, and was followed with a string of scents. The last being a limited edition named “Skinwear 10”, in celebration of the 10th anniversary of Skinwear. The next launches are M and W summer limited editions, which were available in mini form last year. M (alongside W) launched in 2002.

m1M has a citrus opening, which smells like lemon, but it’s not. It’s Yuzu, a Japanese citrus fruit used during bathing, and is usually cut in hot springs to scent the water. There is also a sweet Tea and Pepper note, which feels similar to Bvlgari Pour Homme Soir. There is an Ozonic, breezy feel throughout the topnotes.
The heart bears a warm, light green leafy note, over a scent like Hay, with a light fizzy Incense accord. Slightly smoky, but it’s really been given a light touch and seems as though it’s being smelled through a veil of steam. There are similarities to Odeur 71, with it’s abstract incense note, and L’eau d’Issey. The Coriander is also present, with a quiet Rose note similar to dunhill London’s.
The drydown is a powdery, soft, rooty Vetiver, with Chocolate. Which smells a lot better than it sounds. It’s surprisingly sensual and just smells great.

Top: Yuzu, Roseberry, Black Pepper
Middle: Coriander, Elemi, Gaiacwood
Base: Vetiver, Tonka Bean, Musk

DKNY Men Review

March 8, 2009

DKNY Men is the latest release from DKNY. It isn’t a relaunch of the previous scent, in a tall blue skyscraper bottle. The new bottle is shaped like the Flatiron Building in Manhattan. As soon as I read the notes, I had high hopes for the fragrance.

dknymenThe opening is familiar, with a large dose of the cucumber-like aromachemical, Calone, and what feels slightly citrus. Like when you get a waxed Lemon at the supermarket. But there are powdery Iris undertones, which makes the aquatic note smell really weird. Is this Infusion d’Homme sport?
The heart reminds me of several fragrances. It’s plasticky, but not as much as Bvlgari pour Homme Soir. Not as aquatic or citrus as Acqua di Gio, nor as dry or powdery as Infusion d’Homme. And it’s aromatic, but not as much as L’eau Bleue d’Issey pour Homme, with it’s potent herbs of Provence note. It also reminds me of Ted Baker M, a review of which will be appearing on the blog later this month. It reminds me of so many things, it’s as though many good ideas that work in different fragrances have been thrown together in one bottle, and put directly onto the shelves without checking that all the ideas work together.
The drydown is powdery, musky Cedar, before it finally turns into an indistinguishable sour, off pitch note that eventually fizzles out and leaves me completely underwhelmed.

Top: Bergamot, Mandarin, Juniper, Sage
Middle: White Pepper, Cardamom, Lavender, Violet, Jasmine
Base: Cedarwood, Patchouli, Orris, Vetiver

Egoiste Review

February 21, 2009

Egoiste is the 3rd Chanel Masculine, launched in 1990. Egoiste is apparently the relaunched version of Bois Noir, which was a US exclusive and (according to reviews on Basenotes) had more Sandalwood and Vanilla than Egoiste. More? Egoiste has plenty! Apologies for the small image, I couldn’t find a decent sized one.

egoisteAs soon as it’s sprayed, there is a sweet citrus note that lasts mere seconds. Egoiste’s first impressions are of a sweet, boozy, sugary, Anisic cough syrup. But I like that! There is a soft wood note, which is also warm, and a sweaty smelling note, probably Cumin. I think Egoiste may well have been the predecessor to other Anisic beings, like Yohji Homme and Lolita Lempicka Au Masculin.
The sweat note disappears pretty quickly for a Cinnamon and Rose / floral accord similar to YSL’s Opium to hang about. But as the surroundings for this accord are very thick in feel, it never gets to take over.
A vanilla note, similar to Bvlgari Black, and Ambrette, similar to the sweetness of Dior Homme Intense are the “thick” surroundings which live in the drydown. The smoky floral and cinnamon combination against the vanilla and ambrette sweetness is delicious and enticing. Vanilla, vanilla, vanilla and more boozy vanilla essence makes it smell of some kind of vanilla liquer when it’s on the card, whereas on me, the Sandalwood is apparent alongside this.
Egoiste shouts for attention and wants to be heard – I’m happy to listen. I think Egoiste came too early to be appreciated, and as such is harder to find than it’s flanker.

Top: Mandarin, Rosewood, Coriander
Middle: Rose, Carnation, Cinnamon
Base: Sandalwood, Vanilla, Ambrette Seeds

Fahrenheit Review

February 15, 2009

Fahrenheit, according to Chandler Burr, was originally going to be the fragrance that ended up as Bvlgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert. The success of that would have been interesting to see, but apparently Dior lost their bottle and changed it to the fragrance we know now at the last minute.

fahrenheitFahrenheit’s top notes are a blast of ‘deep heat’, the stuff that you put on sports injuries, but with a cold feel instead of a burning smell. Bitter and pungent, something that feels like Anise and Cloves, and with a sweet spicy note, not a spice cupboard one. Also, there is a camphor or menthol note up top with the Violet Leaves pretty much walking centre stage and shouting it’s lines out.
Then something medicinal comes along, as well as something that smells oily or like fuel of some kind. Of course, the Violet Leaves are still here. What shocks me about Fahrenheit is that it’s so loud all the way through it’s development. It seems like it’s related to Ultraviolet, but an icy version (rather than the warm spicy sugar that UVman is).
The drydown is just Violet Leaves to me. They never go away, and just get more and more tenacious. I think I must be hyperosmic to some violet leaf chemicals, because I always seem to notice the note. The loudness of this note in Fahrenheit is what makes me dislike it.

Top: Hawthorn, Honeysuckle, Mandarin, Bergamot
Middle: Sandalwood, Violet Leaves, Nutmeg, Carnation
Base: Cedarwood, Patchouli, Vetiver, Leather

Joop! Thrill Reviews

January 29, 2009

I can’t say I’ve ever truly liked a Joop! fragrance for myself. Joop! Homme is far too commonplace for me, every other guy seems to have a bottle, and I find it pretty offensive – most guys that wear it overapply it, making the whole thing too much. Jump and Go are just more of the same ‘fresh’. However, I wasn’t going to rule out new scents before sniffing them. According to the press machine, “the scents aim to capture the excitement of an urban adventure by night”.

thrillmThe masculine smells like a combination of Gaultier’s Le Male and the original Joop! Homme. This is not difficult for me to imagine at all, the Perfumer must have been on a bus journey into Bristol town centre on a Saturday night. Those are both of the scents of an “urban” night out, and the mens room in a club will nearly always have a cloud of both by the doorway.
Thrill opens with an incredibly harsh Lavender note, which feels very cold. Also, there is a fermented Apple note in the top. It progresses to Lavender and Geranium with watery floral notes trying to break through, and feels very much like Le Male at this point of the fragrance.
The Vanilla and Amber sweetness of Joop! Homme becomes more pronounced towards the drydown – which is mostly a heavy sweet Vanilla on top of a Musky Wood note.

Top: Bergamot, Crisp Apple, Frozen Lavender
Middle: Cedarwood, Geranium
Base: Amber, Sandalwood, Vanilla

thrillfThe feminine opens with a burst of sweet but light Fruits. A bright Peach note is apparent and takes over the fragrance for a short while. There is something dark about the fragrance at this point too, so it doesn’t smell entirely girly and innocent, but is still very pretty.
The heart smells like Iris flowers, in a similar way to Bvlgari’s Omnia Amethyste. Very slightly Violet-y and powdery with a small floral bouquet supporting the Peach and Iris. The Peach note remains present throughout the heart, but before the Vanilla drydown appears there is a distracting acidic note.
It dries into a sugary sweet Vanilla and Musky Wood note, similar to the masculine but much softer.

Top: Bergamot, Dewy Leaves, Peach Juice
Middle: Iris, Lily of the Valley
Base: Vanilla, Tonka Bean, Sandalwood

I prefer the feminine over the masculine, mostly because of the associations with Le Male and Joop! Homme, but also because the feminine is really quite pretty

Sean John I AM KING Review

January 25, 2009

Sean John’s first offerings, Unforgivable and Unforgivable Woman, didn’t excite me terribly. The feminine is perfectly nice, but the masculine annoyed my nose. I AM KING is supposed to be a ‘unique masculine freshness’ (lifted from the overly camp website). I love the idea that we need another fresh fragrance!

iamkingThe scent opens with Orange peel. It’s not just orange though, there is Tangerine as well! It smells convincing for roughly 10 seconds then smells like a “faked” and oddly synthetic Mandarin. If you are looking for an Orange scent, then Hermes has got that covered with the much more effective and convincing Concentrée and Eau D’Orange Verte. I don’t get any of the listed ‘Berry’, Imperial French (what?) or otherwise.
The heart is essentially the same Mandarin on top of the odd, citrus and milky smelling musky-aquatic note I get from both Boss Pure and Fahrenheit 32. Either of those gives the same effect but much more pronounced.
The base is slightly salty, I assume from the naming of Vetiver in the note listing that’s what I’m smelling, with a very light woods note, and the Mandarin is still present even though the scent itself is barely perceptible by this point. If you want a better salty base, go for Beyond Paradise or Bvlgari Aqva/Aqva Marine. A good effort? Not really. We’ve seen the same thing hundreds of times since Acqua di Gio. “I AM MEDIOCRE”.

Top: Tangerine Zest, Orange, Cranberry, Imperial French Berry
Middle: Key Lime Pie, Lemon Creme
Base: Labdanum, Cedar, Vetiver, Sandalwood Essences