Archive for the ‘Paco Rabanne’ Category

Paco Rabanne Ultrared and Usher UR Review

April 11, 2009

Ultrared is the summer flanker to Ultraviolet from 2008, that has been relaunched for 2009. In my opinion, Puig should launch it as a permanent addition to the line, because they’ve nailed the crowd pleasing sugar-sweet masculine fragrances with Black XS, 1 Million and now Ultrared.

ultraredThe opening is juicy. Oranges with some berry-like tanginess, which has been dusted with icing sugar in some odd-desert confection.
The fruity note moves into a light Chocolate Praline accord, which is still coated with the icing sugar, with a quiet Antaeus-esque Leather in the background, and stays that way for the rest of the day. For a summer fragrance, it has fantastic longevity.
From my description, you’d probably imagine it to be a winter fragrance, but by some marvel it’s wearable in the heat and doesn’t become overbearing or cloying.

Top: Blood Orange
Middle: Praline, Tonka Bean
Base: Vanilla, Patchouli

Usher’s second fragrance, UR, is described as fresh and aromatic. UR is very much in the style of soapy clean scents, such as Prada Amber, Infusion d’Homme et al. One thing I’ve certainly noticed about many Celebuscents is the long notes list from which nothing can actually be distinguished.

urUR opens on shower-fresh Lemon scented soap, and for the most part, stays there. This is the kind of fragrance that is meant to be used after a shower to confirm how very scrubbed clean you are. And in a clever and unexpected twist, it even smells of steam for a while.
The ‘sortof’ drydown is the Lemon-soap accord, with some Violet Leaf and a fuzzy Woody note, which could be any of the listed ‘woods’. It’s really quite a well-done fragrance and is a massive improvement on his first scent (which smelled of the Banana milkshake in Marc Jacobs Daisy but slightly woodier) even if it reminds me of the Shower scene in American Psycho.

Top: Melon, Granny Smith Apple, Sea Breeze Accord, Bergamot
Middle: Artemisia, Bay Oil, Thai Basil, Nutmeg, Violet Leaf
Base: Guaiac Wood, Cashmere Wood, Sandalwood

The Offenders of ’08 – Mini Reviews (Mens)

January 8, 2009

I’ve listed and reviewed my favourite fragrances from 2008, and I realized that I don’t really pan anything at all. So here are the Male fragrances released this year that I didn’t like.

Calvin Klein Euphoria Intense – Supposedly has an Oud note, smells more like an aquatic mixed with “fruit salad” sweets.

Dolce & Gabanna The One for Men – Smells like a cheap drug store brand deodorant to me – I don’t find it interesting at all. The best part, the tobacco drydown, isn’t worth the wait to me.

Boss Pure – Oh joy, another “fresh” aquatic. Milky smelling in it’s topnotes, but isn’t particularly briny or salty, ideas that would hold my interest some more.

Emporio Armani Diamonds – Fizzy Cedar wood and Musk. I’m sorry, I just plain don’t like you.

Paco Rabanne 1 Million – Oranges coated in icing with a wimpy Suede note. Makes me wretch. Should be marketed to women. Cool bottle, though.

Givenchy Play – Synthetic feeling Citrus-Musk. And not synthetic in that cool Comme des Garcons “it does smell like a garage” way. The intense version is better – it has more Coffee Wood and Tonka. But saying that the intense is better is like saying a cold is better than the flu.