Archive for the ‘Kenzo’ Category

Kenzo Tokyo Review

March 6, 2009

Kenzo’s masculines are always intriguing and at least , but they’ve never fared particularly well on the shelves in store. Pour Homme, L’eau Par, Air, all gone not long after appearing on shelf. Tokyo never even made it to my store, but lucky for me it was around in the local department stores. Tokyo was surprisingly inspired by the Japanese capital and it’s neon brightness.

tokyoTokyo opens with a citrus note that lasts for a fleeting moment, grapefruit with orange. As soon as that disappears, a sharp Licorice accord, which brings to mind Yohji Homme and Egoiste, is the main player. It is warmed by a small dose of Ginger. I find the spice notes very prominent.
The heart smells incredibly thick and dark, like a shadow of a huge tree hangs over it. At the same time, there is a light and bright feeling maintained throughout. This juxtaposition holds my interest every time. There is a pink pepper note, which I love in YSL’s Elle, and there is a Mint and an Anisic note – this could be ‘Shiso’, a Japanese plant that is a member of the mint family and apparently reminiscent of Fennel, which itself smells like Aniseed.
The drydown is creamy and woody, soft but thick, due to Gaiac, and still shadowy, with a Chocolate and crystallized Ginger accord hidden in the shadows.

Top: Grapefruit, Lemon, Bitter Orange, Ginger
Middle: Green Tea, Shiso, Maté, Pink Pepper
Base: Cedar, Clove, Nutmeg, Gaiac Wood

“Best of ’08” Kenzo Power Review

January 5, 2009

From 2008, my favourites are Kenzo Power and Prada’s Infusion d’Homme. Kenzo Power, launched in August 2008, is the most interesting launch of last year. Designed to be Kenzo’s Flower for men, the similarity in names is an obvious marketing ploy. It was created by the ‘nose’ behind Dior Homme, Olivier Polge – I think there is a similar accord in both Homme and Power, which I will explain later.  Also, the fact that a Floral fragrance has been designed for men is interesting as well – I enjoy floral scents, but many men don’t wan’t to smell different, and usually I sell ‘what is most popular’ more than I sell something ‘different’.
I took a lot of deliberation over whether to buy a bottle, but when I spotted a good deal on a coffret I had to snap it up. I feel that it is similar to Guerlain’s Cologne du 68 – yet Cologne du 68 is similar to many things.

kenzopowerPower opens with a delightful heady Citrus and Aromatic blast. On me it is more Citrus, on a card, more Aromatic and spicy. But there is also some hairspray weirdness on my skin for the first few seconds.
As soon as the Citrus note evaporates, it smells as though I’ve just been covered in lots of Talcum Powder for a few minutes. In the background to the talc is the ‘abstract’ floral we’ve been told is here. Slightly Rose-y and very pretty, for lack of a better word. All this time, there is a sweetness to the fragrance as well.

The heart of the fragrance continues the powdered, floral theme, but it’s sweeter than you’d expect from the notes. I definately smell Iris, the dry, powdery, slightly floral root of the Iris flower. And I feel as though I can detect Heliotrope, which also gives a powdery quality to the fragrance – try Ghost Sweetheart (on a card) to see what I mean. The sweet note is either Ambrette or Tolu, which is slightly vanillic. Also, there is something of Orange here, which could be coming from the Freesia, the slightly orange and jasmine scented flower. It smells more of Orange on the card than on me, though. And I must mention the sugar-coated Violet note that also seems to appear here. It’s like the Violet sweets but with a lot more sugar on, a quieter version of the pronounced Violet note in Guerlain’s Insolence. All the while, Power manages to radiate and cheer me up. It’s quite a happy fragrance.

As we reach the basenotes, the ambery, almost incense-like Labdanum appears, bringing incredible warmth to the fragrance. In this classic, dry Cedar wood base is where I believe Polge has hidden his Dior Homme accord, a light Leather, Iris and Cocoa trail seems to live here in the basenotes. I hope to find this in more of his fragrances, as it’s very appealing to me.

Top: Bergamot, Coriander, Cardamom
Middle: Jasmine, Freesia, Rose
Base: Tolu Balsam, Cedar, Labdanum