Archive for the ‘Hermes’ Category

Terre d’Hermes Review

July 12, 2009

Terre d’Hermes is meant to be an olfactory journey through the elements of earth, air and water (wait, no fire?). It was composed by Hermes Perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena, famous for his transparent fragrance structures and launched in 2006. TdH has been massively popular and is the second most reviewed fragrance over at Basenotes (behind A*Men). It famously contains 55% Iso E Super in it’s formula.

Terre d'HermesOpens as a harsh and loud bitter Orange with a tiny hint of Grapefruit. Fortunately, this part is shortlived.
As the citrus subsides, earthy, scorched, dry Vetiver appears, but is dominated by the Pepper notes – which are just lightly spicy and nose-tingling. Soft and elegant, with a tiny hint of Patchouli, which has also been given the Ellena touch (a ghostly presence). There is also a minty-herbal note, which is possibly Geranium, and Benzoin, dry, resionous and vanillic, making me think “smoke”.
After this comes the ‘mineral’ smell, a cold, sharp crystalline note. Like breeze over a rocky desert (the advertising for Terre d’Hermes is perfect in this regard). The sparkling clear-ness reminds me of Paul Smith Story.
The long drydown remains crystal clear and Cedar like, projecting for miles with fantastic longevity. It performs particularly well in the heat of summer.

Top: Grapefruit, Orange, Flint
Middle: Pepper, Pink Pepper, Geranium leaves, Patchouli
Base: Cedar, Vetiver, Benzoin


Hermes Eau D’Orange Verte Review

June 7, 2009

Over at Basenotes, it was a Citrus themed Sniff n Speak Saturday. I took the opportunity to wear and review Hermes classic Eau de Cologne, created in 1979.

Eau D'Orange VerteAt first it smells like peeling an Orange, for a couple of seconds, and then there is another shortlived Orange juice note. Citronella features prominently in the topnotes, with what smells like Lemon, and a little bit of Lime as well.
Some kind of Mango sorbet comes centre stage for the heart of the fragrance, still with hints of the citrus, and the Oakmoss from the base showing through.
The drydown is soft, smoky, green Oakmoss – and not much else. The greatest thing about EdOV is that it is so bright and cheerful. The unfortunate thing is that it’s over so quickly, but that is the nature of an EdC, and nothing should stop you reapplying it.

Top: Orange, Mandarin, Lemon, Orange Blossom
Middle: Mint, Papaya, Mango
Base: Patchouli, Oakmoss