Archive for May, 2009

Boss in Motion White Edition Review

May 31, 2009

Boss in Motion launched in 2002. Since then, there have been 5 flankers in the series, of which 2 have been better than most of Boss’ permanent output (Green and Blue editions). Boss in Motion White Edition is the latest addition to the range.

bimwhiteWhite Edition opens with a similar Orange note to the original Boss in Motion, without the bubbly smell. It quickly proceeds to a clear steamed rice smell, very similar to the newest DKNY offering.
In the heart there is a kind of Woody softness, reminiscent to me of the ‘nothing’ that I smell when I sniff the “smooth, woody, ambery” aromachemical Iso E Super. The Saffron note is very quiet, and very similar to that in CdG’s 8 88 – it is slightly metallic and strangely warm. It doesn’t last long at all, and a Lilac note with Violet Leaf greenness is the next thing that appears. The spice notes are present, but are so indistinguishable and tame that you have trouble making them out unless you really concentrate on them. I imagine that most Boss consumers would run a mile from anything truly spicy and edgy.
The drydown is the same powdery and plastic Vetiver and Cedar as the DKNY, with a sweet-ish Musk. Considering the notes listing looked incredibly promising, the result is unexciting. White Edition isn’t generic in the slightest, but it is quite plain.

Top: Ruby Orange, Basil
Middle: Cinnamon, Saffron, Black Pepper
Base: Woods, Vetiver, Musk

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Diesel Only The Brave Review

May 25, 2009

Only The Brave is Diesel’s newest offering, and is their second main Masculine release. The fragrance was developed by 3 perfumers at IFF – AliĆ©nor Massenet, Pierre Wargnye, and Olivier Polge. Polge is adept at making scents that smell better on skin than they do on card – Only The Brave needs to be tested on the skin.

onlythebraveThe opening is fresh: Lemon, sea breeze and Calone. Lasts for roughly 20 seconds and instantly forgettable. Which is good, because it isn’t remotely related to the rest of the fragrance. On a card, the top note remains for an age – and smells like any generic aquatic. On skin, it comes to life.
The heart is the most impressive part of the fragrance. The “freshness” recedes into a sweet and powdery Chocolate and Praline, with hints of Ambrette. It reminds me of Dior Homme Intense, from the Chocolate, and Paco Rabanne Ultrared, with it’s Icing Sugar and Orange notes, all underneath a light ozone-like note. Almost like a combination of Allure Homme Sport and Ultrared. A slightly smoky note hangs around, at the ‘edges’ of the fragrance, and eventually decides that it won’t come onto the stage, so that the momentary hairspray Violet note from Kenzo Power can appear.
The ‘drydown’, if you can call it that, is the combination of sweetness, Vanilla, Icing Sugar coated Amber notes with a hint of Patchouli, and feels somewhat similar to Guerlain’s L’Instant pour Homme.
Even though it’s a case of “smelled it all before”, it’s still quite a novel combination and is easily wearable for summer.

Top: Lemon, Mandarin
Middle: Cedar, Coriander, Violet
Base: Amber, Styrax, Labdanum

Cristalle Eau Verte Review

May 13, 2009

Cristalle Eau Verte is Chanel’s latest offering, and is a modernized update of the 1974 classic created by Henri Robert. It is designed as a luminously fresh fragrance, and is meant to evoke “the exhilaration of refreshing summer rain at the close of a gorgeous sunny day”. I’m not sure that it smells particularly of rain or summery. Many other reviews have cited that it doesn’t seem at all related to the original fragrance – and I can only agree. The EdT is very mossy. The EdP is thick and heady. Eau Verte is light and breezy.

cristallThe opening is a bright, bitter and sweet Lime, much like Guerlain Homme, with a shot of Anise, which is present for mere seconds and creates a more bitter tone for the duration. Up top is also a high dose of Citronella, which adds to the freshness. It feels incredibly green, and the Lime plays on this.
In my opinion, it is somewhat similar to Chance Eau Fraiche, and is also similar in style to the recent J’Adore L’eau, with it’s combination of creamy Magnolia and citrus notes, and Versace’s Versense, which feels green and has a potent Citronella note too.
The heart hides a light white-floral mixture of Jasmine, which has a little bit of skank, and is hard to smell behind the verdant greenery. There is also some kind of effect that reminds me of the darkness in Gucci by Gucci.
The drydown is a skin-soft, very light and creamy Jasmine, lacking any punch or much of a trail, but it’s very pleasant and it seems like Chanel are onto a winner. The scent is completely genderless, and unless you are put off by floral notes it is completely wearable by a guy.

Top: Lemon, Bergamot
Middle: Magnolia, Neroli
Base: Jasmine, Musky-Iris Accord

Guerlain My Insolence Review

May 5, 2009

My Insolence is the first flanker of Guerlain’s newest female “star” fragrance, Insolence. It was released in 2007. I wore it for Sniff n Speak day “Fruity” over at Basenotes.

myinsolenceMy Insolence begins with a mixture I wouldn’t put together: Fig, Raspberries, Iris and the off-key Hairspray note famous in the original Insolence. It works incredibly well.
The fruit note is the star of the whole fragrance, and the heart surrounds it with Vanilla and Almond notes – which together remind me of a blossom that grows on the trees near my grandparents home every spring. It creates the illusion of a Raspberry Tart dessert. It is joined by a marshmallow like sweetness, with powdery floral notes, similar to Ghost Sweetheart (Iris, Heliotrope).
The drydown is still sweet and fruity, with hints of the Guerlainade- dusty soft Vanilla!
The whole effect is fun, girly and innocent, and entirely captivating. Even though it’s somewhat girly, it’s still perfectly wearable by a man.

Top: Raspberry, Citrusy Note
Middle: Jasmine, Almond Blossom
Base: Patchouli, Vanilla, Tonka Bean