Prada Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger Review

Prada have been incredibly successful (and deservedly so) with Amber and Prada Man, then more recently with Infusion d’Iris and Infusion d’Homme. I’ve enjoyed all of their releases thus far, and was excited when I heard about the summer flanker for the infusion range, Infusion de Fleur d’Oranger. I was hoping for a lightweight Neroli for summertime. But it seems they spent the money on the packaging, and not the juice, which is not a surprise considering the way the industry works. Prada have had a huge let down in the first of their series of ‘ephemeral infusions’ based on their Exclusive boutique range.

IdFdO opens with Neroli, the kind I recognise from Gaultier’s terrifyingly potent Fleur du Male. And just as soon as you catch that, it whizzes past your nose and is replaced with a light, powdery Tuberose with hints of white florals, presumably from the Jasmine and Orange Blossom, but none of it has any presence, skank or body, it’s just “there”.
And before you know it, that’s gone too. And you are left with a cheap smelling linen water. It’s slightly musky and powdery too, which must be the Serenolide – a Givaudan molecule described as “an elegant white musk with sweet fruity connotations providing warm and soft velvety notes that blend well with all kinds of trendy fruity accords”. The longevity is exceedingly poor, at probably 2 hours tops. Frankly, I’d expect to find this fragrance in Asda’s own brand ironing water, not a fine fragrance.

Top: Mandarin, Neroli
Middle: Orange Blossom, Tuberose, Jasmine
Base: Serenolide, Powdery Notes

“Best of ‘08″ Infusion d’Homme Review

I think Prada’s newest offerings are both wonderful scents. I fell in love with Infusion d’Iris at first sniff. A sweet, soft, green floral scent. It makes me think of pressed Orange Flowers. I don’t feel that the feminine is particularly girly, and I wore it, most men probably could. As soon as I heard there was going to be a masculine, I was intrigued. I first smelled Infusion d’Homme in a duty free store at Heathrow and was annoyed with myself all the way to Hong Kong for not buying a bottle. I was fascinated by the sensation I got when I smelled it. I tried it again in Hong Kong, and was convinced I’d be buying a bottle, but instead I went to eat some noodles and continued my journey to Australia. I eventually bought a bottle when I got back home to England a few weeks later, along with the shower gel.

The opening is Aldehydic, slightly sparkling and similar to Chanel No5, but also dry. And not just dry in the crisp sense. Dry in the sense that it induces dryness at the back of the throat, parching and arid. I’d never experienced this from a fragrance before d’Homme.  The Neroli is the main player in the top notes, and the Iris isn’t really the main feature. After about 20 minutes, the sweet citric Mandarin note appears. I find this unusual in that citrus notes are usually there right away in the first spray and then disappear.
This turns into soap. Old fashioned soap, like my Nan used to keep in her bathroom. This is incredibly comforting, and I guess because of the memories of my grandparents. It also reminds me of Estee Lauder’s White Linen, crisp and like fresh laundry. Floral notes intermingle in the background, especially the Iris, which gives a light powdery quality to the heart. It feels very elegant to wear.
I would call the drydown of this fragrance a light Vetiver. Similar to Guerlain’s classic, but cleaner. The Guerlain is earthy and d’Homme is not. It doesn’t always appear to be around, but it drifts in and out of perception all day if using the bath products as well. If not, it doesn’t last particularly well.

Infusion d’Homme is a clean woody floral scent of beauty. I can see this becoming a classic fragrance over the next few years, I can see myself getting lynched for this, but to me it’s a modern Eau Sauvage.

Top: Mandarin Orange, Neroli, Aldehydes

Middle: Iris, Galbanum, Cedar, Vetiver

Base: Benzoin, Frankincense